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Introduction: Why Shrimp Are an Ideal Beginner Project Shrimp are an excellent entry into the aquarium hobby. They require less equipment than most fish species, are fascinating to observe, and their peaceful behaviour creates a calm and natural aquarium atmosphere. Shrimp aquariums can be successfully kept from as little as 20–30 litres, making them ideal for small spaces. However, a larger volume – especially around 60 litres – provides much more stable water parameters and is therefore highly recommended for beginners. Choosing the right and truly necessary shrimp tank equipment is essential. Many newcomers overestimate the technical requirements; in reality, a minimal but high-quality setup is sufficient to create stable conditions. A well-planned shrimp aquarium requires only selected equipment. Filtration: Proven Systems for Stable Water Quality The filter is the biological heart of any shrimp aquarium. Air-driven sponge filters and Hamburg Mattenfilters are particularly suitable because they provide extensive surface area for beneficial microorganisms while being completely shrimp-safe. This means that neither adult shrimp nor tiny shrimplets can be sucked into the filter, as the fine pore structure of the sponge or mat prevents this. These filters also create a gentle water flow, reducing stress and benefiting other sensitive aquarium inhabitants such as dwarf crayfish, snails, fry, and microfauna. The calm flow supports natural feeding behaviour and mimics the gentle currents common in nano aquariums. Reliable entry-level options include models such as the Aqua Nova Sponge Filter 60 L or the Aqua Nova Stand Corner Sponge Filter 200 L. They are powerful, affordable, durable, and very easy to maintain – ideal for nano and medium-sized aquariums. A strong air pump, such as the JBL ProAir a50, further stabilises oxygen levels, especially in planted or more densely stocked aquariums. For those who prefer internal filters, the JBL PROCRISTAL i30 is a compact and modular option that can be expanded with additional modules. For very young shrimp, the Dennerle Corner Filter Baby Protect ensures enhanced intake safety. The Nano FilterExtension for corner filters increases filter volume and allows additional filter media, further improving biological stability. Internal filters can also be used as long as a fine intake guard is fitted. Alternatively, external and hang-on-back (HOB) filters provide more space and quiet operation. External filters operate outside the aquarium, offering large multi-chamber filtration for highly efficient mechanical and biological cleaning. HOB filters hang on the tank’s rear or side and save internal space while remaining easy to maintain. Both systems work well for shrimp tanks when equipped with a fine sponge or stainless-steel intake guard. Lighting: Optimal Light Conditions for Plants and Shrimp While shrimp themselves require little light, a planted aquarium benefits greatly from high-quality LED lighting. Strong and even light promotes plant photosynthesis, stabilises growth, supports oxygen production, and encourages biofilm formation – an important natural food source for shrimp. It also improves nutrient uptake, which helps maintain water quality and reduces algae growth. LED lighting enhances plant growth and highlights shrimp coloration. For small to medium-sized shrimp tanks, compact, energy-efficient LED systems with plant-friendly light spectrums are ideal. The lighting must be bright enough to support plant growth without overheating the aquarium or causing excessive algae. Adjustable intensity and timer functions help simulate natural day–night cycles. Lumen per litre is an essential metric: approximately 10–20 lm/L for easy plants, 20–40 lm/L for medium plants, and over 40 lm/L for advanced species. Examples include: Easy – Anubias barteri; Medium – Cryptocoryne wendtii; Advanced – demanding Rotala varieties requiring strong light. A colour temperature between 5,500 and 7,000 Kelvin promotes plant growth, biofilm formation, and a natural appearance. Even light distribution without harsh shadows or hotspots is crucial for both plants and shrimp. Heating and Cooling: Temperature Control in a Shrimp Aquarium Neocaridina species thrive at typical room temperatures (18–24 °C), while Caridina species require stable conditions around 20–23 °C. A heater is only necessary if the room temperature fluctuates significantly or drops below optimal values. Modern heaters provide consistent warmth and are simple to install. In summer, cooling may be necessary, especially for Caridina, as warm water holds less oxygen and increases stress. Fan-based aquarium coolers can lower water temperature by a few degrees, creating a more stable environment. As an emergency measure during heat spikes, placing sealed ice packs or frozen water bottles into the tank can temporarily reduce temperature safely and gradually. Maintenance Tools: Essential Equipment A minimal technical setup does not reduce the need for regular maintenance. A fine gravel vacuum is essential, and an algae magnet remains important even if you keep snails. Although snails help control algae, they do not clean glass evenly or completely. Hard green algae and stubborn biofilm often remain, making manual cleaning unavoidable. Gentle cleaning tools such as JBL Blanki and JBL Spongi remove algae effectively without damaging glass or silicone seams. Aquascaping tweezers and a dedicated water-change bucket are also indispensable. Regular water changes (10–30%) and water testing (pH, nitrite, nitrate) help maintain stability. Many beginners underestimate the importance of the cycling phase, yet it is crucial for a stable aquarium. The tank should run for two to four weeks before adding shrimp. Additional guidance on cycling can be found in the Rendo-Shrimp blog articles “Step-by-Step: Setting Up Your First Aquarium” and “The Right Shrimp Aquarium: Size, Equipment and Setup”. Optional Accessories: Useful Additions Not essential but helpful are TDS meters, feeding pipettes, and fine-mesh shrimp nets. Oxydators or air stones improve oxygen levels, especially at night or during heatwaves. CO₂ systems are usually unnecessary unless you keep demanding plant species. Water conditioners can be useful when tap water contains chlorine or heavy metals. They therefore belong to the basic maintenance equipment of a shrimp tank. RO (reverse osmosis) water is ideal for many Caridina species, as it is nearly free of hardness minerals and allows precise adjustment of water parameters. Combined with specialised remineralisation salts such as Salty Shrimp, GH and KH can be tailored accurately, improving long-term stability and reducing fluctuations. Additional practical advice: Plants should be rinsed thoroughly or purchased as in-vitro cultures to prevent pesticide contamination. Hardscape materials like wood and stone must be selected carefully, as some woods such as Mopani can release substances harmful to shrimp. Soil substrates are ideal for Caridina, as they stabilise water values and create slightly acidic conditions. Neocaridina also thrive on sand or gravel. Conclusion: Efficient, High-Quality Equipment for a Successful Start Shrimp aquariums require less equipment than many expect. Quality is more important than quantity. A shrimp-safe filter, appropriate LED lighting, and – if necessary – a reliable heater form the foundation of a stable, natural, and long-lasting environment. Combined with a proper cycling period and regular maintenance, these components ensure an optimal habitat for healthy, active shrimp. Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ) What do beginner shrimp need in their aquarium?Stable water parameters, a shrimp-safe filter, moderate lighting, hiding places, moss or fine plants, and a proper cycling phase. Calm, low-nutrient environments without sudden fluctuations are ideal. Which hardy shrimp species are suitable for beginners?Neocaridina species such as Red Fire, Blue Dream, Sakura, and Yellow Fire are ideal for beginners. They tolerate a wide range of water parameters and are less sensitive than Caridina species. What comes first when setting up an aquarium?Set up the aquarium with substrate, hardscape, and plants, then fill it completely with water. After that, allow the tank to cycle for two to four weeks before adding shrimp. Which shrimp species are best for beginners?Neocaridina species are recommended for beginners due to their robustness and ease of care. Caridina species are more sensitive and require precise water adjustments.

Transport is always stressful for aquarium animals. Therefore, it is all the more important that they are properly acclimated to their new home. There is no universally perfect method, as the correct procedure depends on various factors — in particular, the duration of transport, water quality, and the temperature difference between the transport and aquarium water. The longer the transport takes, the more stressed the animals become. Especially in such cases, it may be important to move the animals into the aquarium as quickly but as carefully as possible to remove them from the stressful transport water. This article explains step by step how to help your new inhabitants have a gentle start in their aquarium. Acclimation Overview Whether shrimp, snails, or fish — acclimation is important to help the animals adjust more comfortably to their new home. Four main steps have proven effective: Turn off the light: Direct light from the aquarium can add extra stress after transport. Therefore, turn off the aquarium lighting for the next few hours or dim it significantly. Match the temperature: Place the sealed transport bag in the aquarium for 15 to 30 minutes to allow the temperature to equalize slowly. This prevents temperature shock. Adjust water parameters: If possible, measure the key values in both the bag and aquarium water. If the differences are large, gradually add aquarium water until the volume has roughly doubled. This helps the animals adjust gently to the new conditions. Carefully transfer the animals: Use a net or small container to move the animals. The transport water should not be poured into the aquarium, as it may contain elevated ammonia levels. After a few hours, the light can be turned back on, and feeding can start the following day with a small amount of food. Finally, for orders placed in the Rendo Shrimps Shop, we recommend using the enclosed acclimation card as a guide. It provides a proven, step-by-step method for safely and stress-free acclimating your new aquarium animals when ordering via live animal shipping. Important Points and Observations During the acclimation process, pay close attention to the following aspects: Type of purchase: For local or private purchases, the drip method can be used. For online orders, however, follow the enclosed Rendo acclimation card to ensure the best adaptation. Transport duration: The acclimation method strongly depends on the transport time. The longer the shipping route, the more important it becomes to transfer the animals quickly but carefully into the aquarium. Temperature difference: The greater the difference between the bag and aquarium water, the more cautiously the temperature equalization should be performed. Water parameters: If measuring tools are available, you can compare pH, conductivity (TDS), KH, and GH values to get a sense of possible differences between transport and aquarium water. Larger discrepancies should be compensated with a slower, more gradual acclimation process. Water quality: Cloudy, strongly smelling, or discolored transport water indicates stress or contamination. In this case, transfer the animals a bit faster and do not reuse the transport water, as it may contain harmful substances such as ammonium or ammonia, which can be stressful for aquarium inhabitants. Dead animals: Remove them immediately to protect water quality and prevent potential stress for the remaining animals. Aftercare in the First Days After introducing the animals, allow them to rest. Avoid sudden light changes, loud noises, or large water changes. Feed sparingly the next day and carefully observe their behavior. Watch for signs like restless swimming or listlessness, which may indicate stress or improper water conditions. Conclusion For successful acclimation after transport, the key is not only to proceed slowly but also to correctly assess the situation. Every order from the Rendo Shrimps Shop includes a practical acclimation card showing exactly how to best introduce your new animals to their aquarium. Following these recommendations will help ensure healthy and active aquarium inhabitants. Your opinion matters! How do you acclimate new animals? Share your experiences in the comment section below this article.

An aquarium is more than just a decorative element – it is a living, small ecosystem. If you are planning to keep shrimp, snails, or other invertebrates, the decision should not be made spontaneously. To ensure your animals stay healthy and you can enjoy them for a long time, there are some important points to consider in advance.

Why Autumn Leaves Are So Valuable in the Aquarium In natural habitats such as streams and ponds, fallen leaves cover the ground, creating a stable microecosystem. The same can be replicated in the aquarium. As the leaves decompose, biofilms form—thin layers of microorganisms, fungi, and bacteria that serve as an important food source for shrimp and snails. In addition, many leaf types release valuable humic substances that have antibacterial properties, promote mucous membrane health, and give the water a clear, slightly amber tint. Brown, Green, and Colorful Leaves – What to Watch Out For Brown Leaves: The tree has already broken down sugars and starch. The leaves contain few carbohydrates and are therefore harmless to water quality. They are ideal as long-term food, can remain in the aquarium, and are gradually grazed on by shrimp and snails. During decomposition, humic substances are released, slightly tinting the water amber and providing antibacterial benefits. Green Leaves: These still contain sugars, starch, and proteins. Such nutrients promote bacterial growth and can lower oxygen levels in the aquarium—sometimes with fatal consequences for invertebrates. Green leaves should only be fed in small amounts, dried or briefly scalded. Any uneaten leftovers should be removed soon after feeding. Colorful Leaves: The red and yellow colors come from pigments such as anthocyanins, which are also sugar-based. Such leaves are only suitable once they are completely brown and dry. Proper Collection: Quality Over Quantity When collecting autumn leaves, care is more important than quantity. Clean, untreated leaves are essential for maintaining water quality in the aquarium. Ideal sources include natural forests, parks, or your own garden if no pesticides are used. Make sure the leaves are dry, free of mold, and not contaminated by exhaust fumes or animal droppings. Do not collect leaves near busy roads or industrial areas. Avoid leaves from sprayed fruit trees or fields. Best sources: untreated private gardens, natural forests, or parks. Collect only fully brown, dry leaves that are free from mold and contamination. Preparation and Application in the Aquarium Before using autumn leaves in the aquarium, they should be completely dried to prevent mold formation. Leaves collected from the ground should be briefly scalded to remove dirt and microorganisms. The dosage depends on the leaf size—start with fewer leaves and observe how quickly they are consumed. If overdone, simply remove excess leaves and perform a partial water change. Drying: Spread freshly collected leaves in a shaded, dry place for several days until crisp. Scalding: Pour boiling water over the leaves briefly—kills germs and helps them sink faster. Dosage: Around 2–3 leaves per 20 liters (5 gallons) of water are sufficient. For densely stocked shrimp tanks, use slightly more. Residue: Brown leaves can remain in the aquarium until completely decomposed. Check regularly and remove any remnants if needed. Suitable Leaf Types for Shrimp, Snails, and Crayfish table { width: 100%; border-collapse: collapse; margin-top: 1em; margin-bottom: 1em; } th, td { border: 1px solid #999; padding: 8px 10px; text-align: left; } th { background-color: #f4f4f4; font-weight: bold; } tr:nth-child(even) { background-color: #fafafa; } Tree Species Use Characteristics Beech (Red, Hornbeam) Brown leaves Durable, stabilizes water parameters Oak (Red, Common Oak) Brown leaves Rich in tannins, antibacterial, pH-stabilizing Alder (Black Alder) Leaves & cones Releases humic substances, antifungal Hazel Brown leaves Firm texture, popular with shrimp and snails Maple (Field, Norway Maple) Brown leaves Decomposes quickly, easily digestible Chestnut (Horse Chestnut) Brown leaves Contains saponins, gently purifies water Walnut Green & brown leaves Antibacterial, contains essential oils Hornbeam Brown leaves Very durable, stable in the tank The Biofilm – More Than Just “Slime” Protein- and mineral-rich biofilm: a key natural food source. The so-called biofilm is not dirt, but a living layer of microorganisms. Shrimp, snails, and even some fish graze it actively. Biofilm provides a constant, natural food source for invertebrates. By adding autumn leaves, this biofilm is continuously supported, helping to maintain a stable, biodiverse aquarium ecosystem. Alternative Products If you don’t have time to collect leaves yourself, pre-mixed and sterilized leaf blends are a great alternative. Recommended Rendo Shrimps products include: GlasGarten Liquid Humin 100 ml – supports healthy mucous membranes and stable water values. Sea Almond Leaves Premium – tropical alternative with antibacterial properties. Spinach Leaves 10 pcs – natural vitamin source, highly popular among Neocaridina. Nano Catappa Leaves 12 pcs – small almond leaves ideal for nano aquariums. Dadap Leaves 7–13 cm (10 pcs) – tropical leaves rich in nutrients. Hokkaido Chips 10 g – plant-based supplementary food. Alder Cones 10 pcs – stabilize pH and reduce bacterial load. Walnut Leaves brown/green 5 pcs – antibacterial, support shrimp regeneration. FAQ – Frequently Asked Questions How long do the leaves last in the aquarium? Between two and eight weeks, depending on leaf type. Does the water change color? Yes, it turns slightly amber—which is desirable and improves water chemistry. Can I combine leaves with shrimp food? Yes, autumn leaves act as long-term food and can be combined with protein or pollen-based feeds. We’d Love to Hear from You! Do you already use self-collected autumn leaves in your aquarium, or do you prefer ready-made mixes? Share your experience in the comments section below. Tree Species Use Characteristics Beech (Red, Hornbeam) Brown leaves Durable, stabilizes water parameters Oak (Red, Common Oak) Brown leaves Rich in tannins, antibacterial, pH-stabilizing

Algae are a natural part of any aquarium: in moderation, they’re even beneficial. However, if they grow out of control, natural algae eaters can gently restore biological balance. Below, you’ll learn why natural helpers are worthwhile, which species have proven themselves, and how to combine them effectively to keep your tank clear and healthy in the long run.

Floating plants are not only attractive to look at but also true all-rounders in the aquarium. Especially in nano aquariums, they play an important role in maintaining the biological balance. They filter light, absorb excess nutrients, and thus create a healthier environment for shrimp. In this article, you will learn why floating plants are so useful, how to care for them, and which species are especially suitable for beginners.

Mosses are among the most popular plants in shrimp aquariums. They are easy to care for, versatile in use, and offer both functional and visual advantages. For shrimp in particular, moss is especially valuable, as it provides shelter, food, and structure in the tank. In this article, you will learn about the benefits of moss, how to care for it properly, and which types are especially suitable.

Aquarium plants are not only decorative; they also play a central role in maintaining the biological balance of a shrimp tank. They provide protection for the animals, improve water quality, and even serve as an additional food source. Especially for beginners, the question arises: Which plants are particularly easy to care for and ideal for shrimp? In this article, we present the 10 easiest shrimp-friendly plants for beginners.      Why plants are so important for shrimp Hiding places: Especially juvenile shrimp find shelter among leaves and mosses. Additional food: A biofilm forms on plants, which shrimp love to graze on. Stability: Plants improve water quality by absorbing nutrients and producing oxygen. Learn more about suitable equipment here: The right shrimp aquarium – size, equipment, and setup.       1. Taxiphyllum barbieri (Java Moss) Java moss is a classic in shrimp tanks. It grows even in low light, provides protection for juveniles, and traps fine food particles in its dense fronds. 2. Vesicularia montagnei (Christmas Moss) This moss resembles fir branches, making it particularly decorative. It grows slowly and is well-suited for attaching to roots or stones. 3. Monosolenium tenerum (Pellia) Despite its name, it is not a true plant but a type of liverwort. Shrimp love to forage in it, and it is extremely easy to care for. 4. Anubias nana A robust epiphyte plant that can be attached to stones or roots. It grows slowly, requires little care, and shrimp enjoy grazing on its leaves. Note: Anubias should not be planted in the substrate if possible, as the rhizome may rot. 5. Bucephalandra These plants from Borneo come in many varieties. They also grow attached to surfaces and are very robust, making them suitable even for smaller tanks. Because they grow very slowly, they require little maintenance. 6. Microsorum pteropus (Java Fern) The Java fern is one of the most resilient aquarium plants. It should not be buried in the substrate but rather attached, and it tolerates lower light conditions well. 7. Egeria densa (Anacharis) Another fast grower that absorbs excess nutrients. Ideal for starting out when stabilizing a tank. 8. Cryptocorynes (e.g., Cryptocoryne wendtii) These midground plants are easy to care for and adapt well to most water conditions. They grow in dense groups, structure the aquarium, and provide numerous hiding places for shrimp. 9. Floating plants (e.g., Frogbit, Salvinia) Floating plants absorb nutrients directly from the water, provide shade, and reduce algae growth. Shrimp enjoy the calmer surface. Reduced light can also help prevent stress in the animals. 10. Hygrophila polysperma Hygrophila polysperma is one of the most popular stem plants in aquatics and is ideal for beginners. It grows quickly, adapts to various water parameters, and helps absorb excess nutrients like nitrate – effectively preventing algae. In addition, its dense leaves provide shrimp with many hiding spots. With regular pruning, it can be easily shaped and will sprout fresh growth repeatedly.       Tips for beginner sets If you are new to aquatics, you don’t have to select every plant individually. Ready-made beginner sets are especially practical, offering a balanced mix of carpeting plants, epiphytes, stem plants, and colorful highlights. This allows you to plant your aquarium harmoniously from the start and immediately create a healthy, varied environment for your shrimp. A particularly recommended set is the Beginner Mix – 5 Potted Plants from the Rendo-Shrimp Shop. It includes five robust, easy-care plants (including epiphytes, carpeting plants, and colorful accents) that are ideal for small to medium-sized tanks starting at 30 liters. With this set, you get a versatile selection of easy-to-maintain plants that bring structure, color, and natural beauty into your aquarium – perfect for beginners or as an addition to existing tanks.       Fertilization done right Light alone is not enough for healthy plant growth – plants also need the right nutrients. Especially in shrimp tanks, you should pay attention to the correct dosage to avoid stressing the animals. Substrate fertilizer: Root tabs or nutrient substrate supply roots directly. Particularly important for heavy root feeders like Cryptocorynes. Liquid fertilizer: Provides trace elements and nutrients directly to the water. Balance: Excess fertilizer promotes algae growth, so it’s better to fertilize regularly in small amounts. This creates the basis for vibrant colors and healthy growth – even in small nano tanks.     CO₂ supply for optimal growth A CO₂ system is a true growth booster: plants grow more compact, with more vibrant colors and healthier leaves, making the aquarium quickly look livelier. Particularly practical are systems with SodaStream cylinders, which can be easily replaced and are sufficient for tanks up to about 100 liters. With a night shut-off, you can avoid overdosing – getting the most out of your planted tank.       Conclusion Choosing the right plants makes starting shrimp keeping much easier. With robust species like Java moss, Anubias, or Java fern, you create a low-maintenance and stable tank in which shrimp feel comfortable and can thrive. Discover more tips on shrimp keeping and aquascaping in our Rendo-Shrimp Blog     We want your opinion! Do you have any questions about aquarium plants or shrimp tank care? Feel free to leave them in the comments! Which plant is a must-have in your aquarium? What is your favorite plant for shrimp? We look forward to your experiences and tips!

Many shrimp keepers, especially those who keep sensitive Caridina species, work with reverse osmosis (RO) water. However, pure RO water is not suitable for shrimp: it contains almost no minerals and is therefore neither stable nor healthy for the animals. Only by remineralizing with the right mineral salts does it become perfect aquarium water. In this guide, we show you how to properly prepare RO water and what you should pay attention to.

For shrimp to live healthily and feel comfortable, it’s not only the aquarium setup and food that matter. Water parameters also play a decisive role. Especially for beginners, the three basic parameters GH, KH, and pH are essential. In this article, we explain what they mean, how to measure them, and what you should pay attention to when keeping shrimp.